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Among the displeased, rival couturier Paul Poiret is said to have sniped at Chanel in the street, What are you in mourning for, Mademoiselle? The equally scissor-tongued designer is said to have retorted: For you, dear Monsieur. Frock and awe To put it in context, three decades earlier, John Singer Sargent's portrait of Madame Gautreau, better known as Madame X, in a black dress had provoked outrage in Paris